I am adding this page on the 13th of September 2007 after meeting with many clients who are dealing with aggression issues and one client who was going to put his dog down since it was biting everyone in the family...people and dogs. Fortunately, he called me and I determined that he did not actually have an aggressive dog but just needed to work on some aggressive behavior that the dog had. Within the first 10 minutes of me meeting the dog, I was able to get the dog to look at things much differently, and after our first appointment the dog was well on the way to a wonderful behavior modification: not acting in an aggressive way...I emphasize that I do not guarantee results and there are no quick fixes but I am highly successful with dogs that have aggression issues.

I cannot stress strongly enough that if you are using food or clickers to work on aggression issues with your dogs you need to stop. You need to address these issues with very strong behavior modification techniques that I use and teach.  I also put it out to all trainers, behaviorists, and vets to please send me your worst "aggressive cases" or any issues that you are not prepared to work with or if you feel the dog should be put down. Allow me to work with these dogs at least 1 time in order to see if the dog can be rehabilitated.

I realize that other trainers feel they need to use food and clickers and disagree with me. The real issue is that I am getting all the dogs that have "dropped out" of other training programs...these dog's owners end up calling me.

Also keep in mind that when you have an aggressive dog that lunges and barks at other dogs when out walking, you need to stop using head halters and chest harnesses on your dog. It is not helping you with your dog's aggression problems and could possibly be making it worse: you need to stop putting a band-aid on your dog's behavior and seriously work on the problem.

I realize that I am being pretty intense with my wording, but I am saving dogs lives on a daily basis by keeping them out of the city pounds and keeping them from being euthanized.  I also do not mind having educated discussions with other trainers about this issue.

To everyone out there using e-collars or shock collars: unless you have been trained in the proper use of these collars you could be doing more harm than good to your dog. I can properly train you on the use of these collars if you insist on using them. Most cases of aggression do not need the use of an e-collar. To all of the people that insist e-collars are extremely cruel to a dog: let's start thinking about electric underground fences...they are the EXACT same thing as an e-collar. Let's also think about the millions of dogs getting sent to shelters because they have been improperly categorized as aggressive dogs and killed because the owner has not gotten the proper advice.

If your dog is being aggressive to you with food, if your dog growls and bites at you when you try to pick up its food or a treat by it. I can work on this issue very easily and do not find it a sign of major aggression.

If your dog is barking and lunging at other dogs and people and is making your daily walks miserable. I can work on this issue very easily and do not find it a sign of major aggression.

If you dog is barking and biting people that come into your house as guests, I can work on this issue very easily and do not find it a sign of major aggression.

If your dog has bitten a family member or growled at a child or bitten a child in your house. I find this a very important issue to address immediately and feel very confident that I can work on it with success to the point where your dog can live harmoniously in your house with you.